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Jono
09-02-2009, 08:22
My wife's grandfather was in WWI and we inherited his officers trunk.
It is a VERY heavy wooden trunk that opens to reveal drawers and a place to
keep your uniform on the inside top lid. Basically, it is in need of restoration...the exterior paint has spill and stains, a few edge boards need replacing due to some garage storage water exposure etc.
Q: Has anyone restored a trunk like piece of furniture before? I can envision
square whiskey slots on the inside.

ebo
09-03-2009, 17:17
Are you planning on doing the work yourself? It shouldn't be that difficult to replace a couple of boards and convert it for whiskey storage.

I am a professional Cabinetmaker. If you post some pics, maybe I can help get you going in the right direction.

smokinjoe
09-03-2009, 17:28
Are you planning on doing the work yourself? It shouldn't be that difficult to replace a couple of boards and convert it for whiskey storage.

I am a professional Cabinetmaker. If you post some pics, maybe I can help get you going in the right direction.

The number 1,792nd reason why I love SB.Com. The people. Good on you, Ebo.

:toast:

Jono
09-03-2009, 19:49
Thanks Ebo....will do soon!

Jono
09-04-2009, 19:29
I have "tried" to attach some photos....I had to resize...hopefully this will work:

The trunk inside measures are 34.5" wide x 18.5" deep, 13.5" height

Jono
09-04-2009, 19:34
I also have some concern over the rusted metal.....

Jono
09-04-2009, 19:49
My wife's older brother...who is a huge military history buff...did not want the trunk...amazing....in fact, he was ready to throw it out when we were cleaning up my late mother-in-law's house. I would never get rid of such family history...so my son....the trunk owner's great grandson will inherit it...modified with his father's whiskey! Hopefully, it will prove to be a very valuable antique for two reasons!

This trunk is a beast...it has to weigh over 100+ lbs empty...

I am going to assume lead paint.....will preserve the name decal....but the old paint will have to go...will see what the wood looks like after stripping.

ebo
09-05-2009, 08:16
It looks to be in fairly good shape for it's age. From what I can see in the pics, it looks to be made of Pine, Hemlock or Fur.

I don't see any rot, just some water stain. The rusted hardware can be replaced... there are a few companies that specialize in authentic reproduction hardware:
http://www.ballandball-us.com/

http://www.lookintheattic.com/dhardware.html?gclid=COr43pzR2pwCFVRM5Qod_WnkKw

http://www.antique-hardware.com/

Te easiest way to make storage for whiskey bottles would be to build a separate unit that fits inside the existing trunk.

Do you have access to woodworking tools?

Jono
09-05-2009, 12:30
Re tools...some but not a complete woodworking shop by any means. I like the idea of building an insert that would just occupy the interior....maybe even a pre-made rack...something like this:

http://www.wineracksamerica.com/Wood_Wine_Racks/Table_Top_Wine_Racks/index.html

Of course, I might have to make adjustments for the space.
The item above is: 27 5/8"(h) x 17 5/16"(w) x 11 1/4"(d)....not a bad fit.

First step will be to carefully strip the old paint.....after I see what the wood looks like underneath I would have to decide on a finish.
I suppose the old hardware could simply be painted over with Rustoleum or similar.....saving the orginal, rustic look.
Otherwise, I will examine the replacement hardware for a better finshed job.
I am thinking of putting some casters on the bottom...maybe placing the trunk on a frame with the casters.

Stu
09-06-2009, 08:49
As to the metal: If it is iron hardware (which it appears to be) Take it off of the trunk, put it on an electric wire wheel until it is down to bare metal (Completely rust free - but some pits will remain): get some good cold blue at a local gun shop (I like Birchwood Casey's Paste), follow the directions and blue the metal (Degreasing with acetone is a very important step - I usually wear cotton gloves to ensure that I don't get oil from my skin on the degreased metal). The pits will give away the age, but it's an antique that you want to restore, not new merchandise. I've done this to several antique tools and have been very satisfied with the results. If it's copper or brass hardware, a lot of elbow grease and polishing Will restore it beautifully. Good Luck. Let us see a picture of the finished product.

Stu

Jono
09-07-2009, 11:38
Thanks for all of the advice....I just want to be careful with the metal..hopefully the rust is just surface and the pieces are still sturdy enough to be cleaned up and saved. I have a neighbor who has restored some furniture who I can ask for some assistance. The project will take some time...hopefully the bulk of it can be completed in the next couple of months....I want to be able to utilize the open air for any stripping etc.

Jono
09-08-2009, 19:58
I bought some "less toxic" paint stripper...Citristrip a "citrus smelling product" at HD...and after applying a good coat last night I was able to strip most of the top lid paint off...so I was happy with avoiding the very toxic methlylene chloride stuff....though the citrus stuff is still handle with care as the Active Ingredient is NMP, a solvent. If it takes longer...that is ok....I am not in a rush and can work on it a little at a time. When the grain is fully exposed I will post some photos...maybe the species can be better identified. From what I can tell, the lid has orangey striping with some knotty areas...yellow pine? There may be a mix of wood pieces as well.

ebo
09-13-2009, 16:51
I bought some "less toxic" paint stripper...Citristrip a "citrus smelling product" at HD...and after applying a good coat last night I was able to strip most of the top lid paint off...so I was happy with avoiding the very toxic methlylene chloride stuff....though the citrus stuff is still handle with care as the Active Ingredient is NMP, a solvent. If it takes longer...that is ok....I am not in a rush and can work on it a little at a time. When the grain is fully exposed I will post some photos...maybe the species can be better identified. From what I can tell, the lid has orangey striping with some knotty areas...yellow pine? There may be a mix of wood pieces as well.

It could very well be pine. the pine of today is not like the old growth pine from the time period your trunk was made. IMOP, none of the lumber available today is of the quality that was available 100 years ago and more.

Jono
10-03-2009, 21:46
Will be posting some stripped photos soon (the chest, not me)...I removed the corner hardware and was surprised to find what I assume to be brass metal...however, as brass does not rust I am curious about the build up of rust like material...does tarnish get more than superficial? I wonder what other yellow metal alloy this could be? If brass, I am surprised at the rust...could it have spread from the wood screws that affixed the pieces?

fricky
10-04-2009, 06:00
The hardware is probably plated steel.

fricky
10-04-2009, 06:45
Although there are probably other sources, Van Dyke's Restorers sells trunk hardware. You may be able to find replacement hardware for your trunk conversion. Their website is: www.vandykes.com

Jono
10-04-2009, 20:48
As the metal is attracted to a magnet I think you are correct Fricky..my guess is brass or bronze plated iron....I see some silver under the yellow.

As in use here: http://www.cedarchests.com/trunks/wicker/duncanwickertrunk.cfm?source=pjn&subid=23493

Jono
10-08-2009, 21:38
Some photos after most of the paint has been stripped and after some rough sanding. It will take much more to get rid of all of the paint ingrained in the wood. My best guess is yellow pine for the wood....other opinions?
The corner protectors are proving to be troublesome...most of the brass plating is gone and I am left with fairly significant rust on both the exterior and interior surfaces. So, I will have to decide if I keep them and maybe just apply various RustOleum products to preserve what is left or obtain new...hopefully very similar corner pieces. I have been using a wire attachment to a drill and can get down to some of the iron...but removing all of the rust from the pieces will be pretty damn difficult if not impossible..unless I have them sand blasted...hmm, is that an option?
The interior drawer guides are pretty servicable as bottle guides as is...a few will have to be removed for the proper widths but I estimate about 45-50 bottles can be kept in the chest. One photo shows an Oban tube container for scale.

Jono
10-09-2009, 10:04
Maybe some of these rust removal products will work....any experience with them?

http://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Remover-Comparison-Chart-W22C2.aspx
Evapo-Rust, Boeshield Rust Free, Bull Frog Rust Remover

Interesting, the retail source for Evapo Rust is Autozone...not HD, Lowes etc.

There are some metal platers in the area that I will consider approaching about a small brass replating job.
I can't imagine it would cost that much....I know there are home kits you can buy as well..but for a one time job it may
be easier to have them re-plated.

pepcycle
10-09-2009, 12:03
Have them do the plating, but you can save some money by doing the polishing yourself.
I've done this with gun and motorcycle parts.

ebo
10-09-2009, 16:32
Nothing will remove the rust stains from the wood. You will have to sand it out or use a cabinet scraper to remove wood untill the stain is gone. Sandpaper is probably your best bet, unless you are familar with the use of a cabinet scraper (card scraper) and how to properly turn a hook on it.

Your trunk is definitely made of Pine.

Jono
10-09-2009, 18:34
Right, a lot of sanding is required to remove all of the paint that penetrated into the grain.
I placed the corners in the solution of Evapo Rust I purchased today from Auto Zone....hopefully most of the rust will fall away. It uses a chemical...non acid I believe...reaction that only affects the rust and not the bare metal.
The most difficult part of this project will be planning how I want to finish it....from stains to other decorative aspects...interior felt liner etc.

Jono
10-11-2009, 20:59
The Evapo Rust product worked very well...it is a much safer product to use as it is not acid dependent...biodegradable etc....anyway, two of the corners cleaned up after an overnight stay in the solution and the other two required another day of soaking. This product would be a good choice for any rusty metal clean up tasks without having to deal with a toxic mess. I will have to try and get some of the hard to remove rust in pits etc but 95% is gone.

Jono
10-12-2009, 14:02
I have a quote for the re-plating...their minimum order is $65....and estimate $15-18 per corner ... $65-72 + 3.95 s/h ....so, about $76. A bit steep for what I wanted performed.....which raises several Qs / options.

1. Get them replated for authenticity sake...one and done so to speak.
2. Replace them ...though the exact match has not been found.
3. Use metallic Brass spray paint...anybody have experience with the results?
Though cheaper, it would preserve the actual corners and if the result is
is acceptable, it would be much cheaper. I have a friend who manages an
auto body shop...I wonder if they could produce a good result?

Things to consider.

Jono
10-13-2009, 13:09
I also want to add a variation of this:

http://www.brettunsvillage.com/trunks/howto/parts/tray.htm

The trunk base shown is a little plain....I have in mind one with more
decorative base lines and feet with casters.