An evening with Willett Distillery

[flahute]

Drew and Britt Kulsveen came to Seattle on Thursday evening for a moderated discussion and Q&A about their lives growing up around the distillery, how they came to take over the family business, and what's happening now. For those who don't already know, Drew is the Master Distiller, and Britt (his sister) is the Vice President of the company and runs the day to day operation of the business.

 

Most of the moderated discussion centered on the history of the distillery, family stories, and Drew and Britt's experiences with their father Even Kulsveen. Their father and mother ran the operation from 1984 until Drew and Britt stepped into leadership roles. Their mother, Martha, is a Willett for those wondering about the name. Most of you know that Willett was not distilling for a very long time and didn't start distilling again until 2012. Prior to that, they were bottlers and blenders. Drew credits his father for having the foresight to stock up on bulk whiskey and barrels that the majors didn't want/couldn't sell. This gave them aged inventory at just the right time to coincide with the boom. During the 90's/00's/10's, Willett pulled from their stocks of sourced whiskey to support their newer brands such as Noah's Mill, Rowan's Creek etc. along with their legacy brands such as Old Bardstown and Johnny Drum. They also did a lot of bottling for others. When they were first approached to do a private bottling, they hastily came up with a label which resulted in the family crest label that's been used on just about every WFE bottle since then. 

 

Drew and Britt were the drivers to reopen the distilling operation. The old column still had been sitting defunct for decades. An expanded and remodeled distillery was built around it. The pot still they use as their doubler is a trademarked design of their grandfather. When they started distilling again in 2012, they started producing some of the traditional recipes as well as some new ones. They have two rye recipes, one barely legal rye at 51% and another at 74%. When you buy their small batch rye, it's a blend of these two mashbills. My memory is escaping me on how many bourbon mash bills they have. It may be three or four. Their favorite recipe, one of the new ones, is a wheated mashbill (20% wheat) and this is what they distill the most of.

 

During the Q&A, a question about the amount of sourced versus self distilled whiskey was asked in relation to the challenges of acquiring sourced whiskey in the current market. Drew said that at this point they no longer purchase bulk whiskey because it's become too expensive. He did not disclose how much they still have on hand for future needs but addressed that by following up with that they believe in 2-3 years time they will be able transition all of the KBD brands to their own distillate. And, though they've consolidated some of the KBD labels into one or two labels (only two Johnny Drum labels versus three for example), they expect to be able to support all of their current brands. (Aside - the supply of older sourced barrels for the WFE program was not addressed but they obviously still have them).

Drew also said that all of the warehouses are now operational and at this point they are 80% full. 

 

One possible future experimental release he mentioned was a bourbon mash aged fully in used cognac barrels. (It couldn't be called a bourbon of course). 

 

The expanded gift shop is now open and the B&B and cafe is almost ready. It takes them a while to get these projects done because they do everything on a cash basis. No loans, no equity investors.

 

They brought along three whiskies for us to drink during the discussion. Noah's Mill, WFE 16yr, and WFE 5yr rye.

The Noah's Mill was a current production bottle and had the same off notes (wet cardboard) that I've been getting in this brand for a while now.

The WFE 16yr is a sourced barrel at 119 proof. It was fantastic.

The WFE 5yr rye was a Willett distilled single barrel of the 74% rye recipe. I think it was also 119 proof or close, I don't exactly remember. This is a very distinctive rye. It doesn't remind me of any others on the market. It's quite good and I very much look forward to what happens with more age on this mashbill.

[Paddy]

^^^Nice report Steve.  Thanks for bringing us up to speed here.  I too, am very much looking forward to some decently aged Willett rye stocks! 

[lcpfratn]

Thanks for sharing this Steve!


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[smokinjoe]

Sounds like a really good and educational time, Steve.  Thanks for the report!  

[LCWoody]

Thanks Steve, good read. I really enjoyed visiting with Drew when I went to the distillery a few years ago. I think time will tell, but I believe they will be around for a long time.

[smokinjoe]

25 minutes ago, LCWoody said:

I think time will tell, but I believe they will be around for a long time.

Me, too.  New, but not necessarily craft". Old, but not necessarily "legacy". I think the latter will be what puts them over the top.   

[tanstaafl2]

Great report! Just hope/wish they would be a bit more clear about what is going into the bottle going forward similar to what High West does/did on their website, at least with the things labeled as Willet given the different mashbills they produce now. I don't have much interest in the KBD labels at present but have hopes for the future of their distillate under the Willet label.

[FacePlant]

Nice write up, wish I had been there to learn in person. Thanks

[flahute]

1 hour ago, tanstaafl2 said:

Great report! Just hope/wish they would be a bit more clear about what is going into the bottle going forward similar to what High West does/did on their website, at least with the things labeled as Willet given the different mashbills they produce now. I don't have much interest in the KBD labels at present but have hopes for the future of their distillate under the Willet label.

I'm with you. I have no interest in any of the current KBD brands as well. Given their sourced supply constraints and the relative youth of their own whiskey, I don't think think they have what they want for ideal blends that are mature enough and can be differentiated from one another. Like you I have hope for a few years down the road when it's all their own distillate and they have control over their supply.

Once it's all their own and there are no supposed NDA's to be concerned with, I believe they will tell us what's in each blend. That's the impression I got.

[BottledInBond]

Sounds like a cool event. I was at the distillery and was a little disappointed that they didn't have anything interesting in the gift shop (the only WFE was the 3 year Rye which I can get at home). I'd love to try a 5 year version of their 74% Rye.....

[flahute]

53 minutes ago, BottledInBond said:

Sounds like a cool event. I was at the distillery and was a little disappointed that they didn't have anything interesting in the gift shop (the only WFE was the 3 year Rye which I can get at home). I'd love to try a 5 year version of their 74% Rye.....

Yeah. Distillery visits are completely subject to the luck of timing. I've been lucky and they've always had something interesting on hand.

If you ever see the 5yr rye, give it a shot. I'd buy a bottle if I came across it. I'd love for it to be more widespread so I could hear what others think. 

[mdband]

Absolutely love stopping past Willett (and HH) when we visit the wife's family. WFE can be hit or miss but I'm ecstatic every time they have them for sell in the gift shop because, more often than not, it is a great pour. I have a 12 yr and (2) 14 yr bottles. Just a great small distillery. If you are doing the bourbon trial or visiting, this would be my #1 pick. Took a photo of them rolling out last time I stopped in. 

 

 

Thanks for the write up.   

[Richnimrod]

Thanx for this report, Steve.

Interesting business the Kuslveen's run, for sure.    I think their commitment to operate on their own dime is a wise, if slower, way to develop the business; but ultimately they can be as nimble and as eccentric as they want to be... or not; with no outside folx tossing in wrenches.    I'm pulling for their long-term success, and I eagerly await several of their brands, using their own distillate once they have built up mature stocks.

[Clueby]

All the Willett talk made me drag this out of the cabinet tonight. I like it ok but definitely think it could use a few years.  I've never tried any of their older sourced stuff.