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Pre-Pro Crow


scratchline
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Several nights ago I broke into the most unusual bottle I've ever acquired. It was a gallon of Old Crow that came from the basement of an old apothecary shop in Maine. The tax-stripped bottles that were found with it were bottled in the 19 teens. It was one of two wicker covered bottles accompanied by a tag from Wood, Pollard and Co., Boston. I resigned myself to the fact that if the whiskey inside was undrinkable at least I would have a very cool old bottle.

There was some leakage during shipping so it was clear that the seal wasn't completely air-tight. But the cork appeared to be in good shape and there was a wax seal that was still partially intact. We had planned to use a rabbit corkscrew to remove the cork but found that the unusual shape of the bottle neck wouldn't allow it. So I dug out my old school corkscrew expecting the cork to dissolve once I dug into it. To my surprise the cork held together and came out easily. Rather than being dry it was actually soft and rather spongy. That may have been the result of the shipping when the liquor contacted the cork because as far as I know it was pretty much undisturbed for years in the basement.

At any rate, we poured some out. To my relief it was clear so at least we would be able to sample it. Because of the leakage I already knew that it smelled like bourbon. It had a beautiful rusty gold color, like iced tea. The nose was vanilla and caramel. Not floral. And really not particularly unusual. As Jenny said, smells like bourbon. Very pleasant.

Showed very nice body in the glass. The taste was remarkably even, no sudden surges of flavor. Brown sugar sweetness and some dark fruit, plums and raisins. Some gentle pepper spiciness. Finish was medium with the pepper and some woodiness (surprising, since this must be young bulk whiskey) stretching out a ways. The woodiness was slightly astringent without ever becoming unpleasant. Maybe just the alcohol.

It has a flavor that is unlike any other whiskey I have tasted. Whether it's the spongy cork or the mash bill or something else, I don't know. But it's certainly not an unpleasant taste. It is definitely a gentle sipping whiskey. Not complex or punchy but as nice as a summer day is long. I know "smooth" is a bit of a catch-all descriptor but it really fits this whiskey. I'll choose to think that it tastes like time.

Very little evaporation so it filled the bottles pictured with it.

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That's an extremely interesting report. We will always wonder if whiskey of such antiquity tastes essentially unchanged or has been affected somehow by time. The fact that the bottle was so big and covered with wicker, and the lack of evaporation, suggests that the taste didn't change much if at all.

Even with the different element in it you described, could you say (as you did with the nose) that this is recognisably bourbon whiskey as we know it? If so, what brand would it resemble today? Might it taste like, say, ETL?

Gary

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Just on the point of age, assuming it was genuine Crow whiskey - which I think it was judging by the source (apothecary) and the packaging and also the fact that it was sold just after the passage of various consumer protection measures, the pure food laws and so forth - then I would think it received at least 4 years aging if not more. I am trying to remember from the old ads in bourbon books the age of Crow of the time, I would think it was in the neighborhood of 7 years. Even 4 years would be a fair amount both for the time and in absolute terms factoring that is the low distillation and entry proofs used then and the first growth trees used for aging. So this probably was well-aged for the time and that may explain the hint of wood you are getting in the finish. You did not mention char but the next time you sample it, after the glass dries, if you nose the glass you might get some typical charred wood notes off the frame.

Gary

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Hey, Gary, I dug around and found this info that accompanied the bottle:

Old Crow Bourbon, Circa 1920, Gallon bottle, wicker enclosed, sealed, full. This is nearly the last of a local estate sale of old whiskeys found in the basement of a one time coastal apothecary business. There were other Old Crow quarts previously sold . All bottles in this estate that had dates upon them , were dated from 1910 to 1922. This gallon of Old Crow was distilled by W.A. Gaines, in Maryland and was bottled by SS Pierce of Boston, Massachusetts. The one other gallon has the remains of a brittle wax seal with "SSP" embossed in the wax. The wax has deteriorated on this gallon but the cork is intact, and the bottle is sealed, and has never been opened. I've been told by collectors,who purchased the other bottles of this estate, that these Gallon decanters are very rare. These bottles were shipped to Maine via rail and steamship. The shipper was Wood and Pollard of Boston, Mass. A copy of the shippers tag will be provided. The contents of the bottle appear full to the bottle's shoulder, with minimum evaporation and to be of good color. The wicker surrounding this 7" X 15" gallon is in excellent condition and seems quite durable.

I don't know what the source for this info is and whether it's accurate but there you have it. I also found this online listing from a Pierce catalogue. It is from the 1880's and obviously pre-dates the gallon in question but is interesting for context nevertheless. I also don't know why Old Crow was being distilled in Maryland. Maybe it's all a scam but an interesting one. Kind of like counterfeit Old Masters bringing the big bucks. BTW, have you read this:

http://www.amazon.com/Billionaires-Vinegar-Mystery-Worlds-Expensive/dp/0307338770/ref=s9sims_c2_popt1-rfc_g1-2991_g1?ie=UTF8&pf%5Frd%5Ft=101&pf%5Frd%5Fm=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf%5Frd%5Fp=320448701&pf%5Frd%5Fs=center-2&pf%5Frd%5Fr=02D9Z3NNGNBHSD84CP0V&pf%5Frd%5Fi=507846

Caught the short version in The New Yorker and thought it was great. Who knows? Nice bottle anyway.

And yes the whiskey is definitely identifiable as bourbon. As to a current bottle that is similar, I'll have to think about it. And there is definitely some char (or some other sooty sediment) in the dregs of the liquor. Even after straining. And it clouds up in the freezer, so pre-chill filtering.

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Nice find scratchline, I have always wanted to taste an old Old Crow from that era.

To bad Beam trashed it out.

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Many thanks, great info. Gaines definitely was a known supplier of Old Crow, and was associated also with a Crow rye which was well-known in the Northeast. I don't know the exact connection between the Kentucky origins of Old Crow and the Gaines enterprise, Mike Veach would know that I am quite sure. Maybe Gaines was licensed to distill Crow whiskeys, or maybe he imported them for further aging in Maryland (or the bourbon at least). Anyway all these names, SS Pierce, Gaines, of course Crow, are venerable and well-known, and to me point to the authenticity of this whiskey.

That price list is also most interesting. It shows that brandies and whiskeys in the 1880's were available in a broad range of ages, e.g., in bourbon they had everything from new white dog to whiskey aged 7 years and more (note even the rye in the rock and rye was 7 years old). The ages given for some of the rums and brandies are similar to someone buying saying a 30 year old estate rum today, quite impressive. Sure, some of the ages might have been (in that time at least) questionable, but I believe a reputed merchant would sell what it advertised.

It is interesting too that the best Irish whiskey went for more money than fine malt scotch! This shows what I have read elsewhere, that Irish whiskey was reputed over malt whisky in international circles until some time towards the end of the 1800's.

I've heard of that book about the oldest bottle of wine, but haven't read it.

Gary

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Great find! It must be a rush to get to try something from so long ago, and to find it in good condition. Well done.

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Great find Mike. Are you going to save a taste for me the next time you come to Louisville? How does it compare to the Old Crow from the 60's that you brought back from your stint in California? That Bonded Old Crow was fantastic at 5 years of age.

I am not sure where the Maryland comes into play. Is Maryland on the label for the bottle? If so Gaines may have done some contract distilling or simply purchased some Maryland whiskey that they thought was good enough for the Old Crow label. Distillers do that more often than you think - especially when sales are up and they need to meet demand.

Mike Veach

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  • 1 month later...

Scratchline,

I was the lucky winner of the other gallon bottle of Crow. It is indeed delicious as you have reported. Will post my pics along with tasting notes soon. I couldn't help but respond when I saw this thread.

Cheers,

Fury

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Looking forward to your tasting notes. I'll be interested to see how your impressions compare to mine. Welcome aboard.

-Mike

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