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Koval Single Barrel Bourbon


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I'm a little chagrined to admit that I hadn't tried one of our most prominent local bourbons for a long time, but that finally changed.  In Chicago, Koval is probably the premiere local distiller, and I've had lots of their products and even been to events at the distillery, but until yesterday I had never tried their bourbon.  I expected the standard craft bourbon story:  young and overpriced.  But I was at an event yesterday where Koval was doing tastings of several of their products, including their bourbon, so I tried it.  I was pleasantly surprised, enough to swing by Binny's today and grab a bottle.

 

What I had not realized was that although "bourbon" by the legal definition, Koval's bourbon is different from every other bourbon on the market, in that its mashbill is 51% corn and 49% millet.  Now, Koval makes a whiskey from 100% millet, and I've had got a bottle of that miillet whiskey (I'm a sucker for non-standard grain whiskeys), and it's interesting and I like its unique taste.  So I'm happy to report that (to me at least) the bourbon is an effective combination of more traditional bourbon and the millet whiskey.  Side-by-side tasting it with other bourbons, it fits within the category---it tastes like bourbon---but with something additional.  The millet adds additional flavor characteristics that other rye- and wheat-based bourbons don't have.  I'm not the best at putting subtle flavors into words, but I think the millet adds some candy notes.

 

It is young---the label just says "aged under four years," although it's got a pretty deep color.  But it's not a bad young.  I've had older whiskeys that were no more civilized, and certainly similarly-aged whiskeys that were a lot worse.  It's a well-done young whiskey.

 

I'm aware that many people here are not fond of Koval, and I will readily acknowledge that this product is different from most other bourbons, and reasonable minds can differ on whether that difference is a good or bad thing.  So I can understand a bourbon enthusiast trying this and having a negative reaction.  I'm also aware that $40 (the price here at Binny's) is a lot to pay for a young bourbon.  But, my analysis is, it's different---unique, in fact, I'd say---and not bad.  Worth trying if you find it interesting to explore the parameters of what bourbon can be.  While you're at it, I can also recommend their current oat whiskey, which I also tried at the tasting yesterday, and which was very smooth and easy-to-drink.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I got a 3 200ml bottle tasting kit of Koval whiskey a few years back on a trip to Chicago. I think it was bourbon, rye, and 4 grain. All of them were terrible. The rye was (just) good enough to use for cooking. The other two were poured down the drain. I like a lot of different styles of whiskey, and can usually find something to appreciate even from producers that are outside my typical wheelhouse, but these were simply awful.

 

Perhaps they have gotten better since? Did you have a chance to try the stuff from a few years back as well? I would also be curious to know which well-aged whiskies you think are worse than Koval.

 

I have a sort of opposite experience with Few. When I first started to get nerdy about whiskey Few Rye was one I really liked. I had a few good bottles, and then something seemed to change with the batches and they were terrible. I'm not sure if they were just putting out bad stuff to meet demand or what. The first couple bottles I got were before they started getting national attention. I was in Chicago recently and went to a tasting at Few (which was fun), but confirmed that pretty much all the stuff they make these days is bad. The gins were probably the best product they had on offer. It's interesting to ponder whether it's the whiskey that has changed or if it's me, but I've had friends who have had similar experiences with Few. Sorry that's a bit of a tangent but figured you probably have some experience with Few as well.

Edited by EarthQuake
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I'm just about done with a bottle of Few Bourbon and think it is outstanding.   I will definitely replace it.   I believe the bottle I've been drinking is a PA Wine and Spirits pick,  so it could be a honey barrel.   Nevertheless,  it is one of the better craft bourbons I've tasted.   As for Koval -  meh.

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My wife grew up in Brookfield IL (which is just outside Chicago).  Hence, several years ago, she saw a 750 of Koval shortly after she'd seen an article about craft distillers mentioning Koval.  "WE" bought it.  Ah, the things we do for (43+ years of) love.B)

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On 11/14/2018 at 11:12 AM, Jazzhead said:

I'm just about done with a bottle of Few Bourbon and think it is outstanding.   I will definitely replace it.   I believe the bottle I've been drinking is a PA Wine and Spirits pick,  so it could be a honey barrel.   Nevertheless,  it is one of the better craft bourbons I've tasted.   As for Koval -  meh.

When we went to the distillery we did a tasting and they had a regular bottling of the bourbon but I think a single barrel of the rye. Both were bad. I have to imagine they would keep a selection for these tastings so I don't know what to say. To me it's not a case where, for instance, I don't really like the Dickel flavor profile but it's still bourbon and there are good things in there, it's just bad all around (both Few and Koval).

 

Of course everyone's tastes are different and that is part of what makes all of this interesting. What are other bourbons do you usually like?

 

I don't tend to like young/craft whiskey period, so that might have a lot to do with it. Few/Koval taste like a lot of other similar small barrel, young craft products on the market. Cedar Ridge, which is just about 10 minutes away from where I live seems to be finally producing something halfway decent. A local group got together and bought a single barrel of 5 year old bourbon at cask strength. I tried that and it was among the best craft whiskies I've had. I rated it about a 7.5/10 which puts it (for me) better than Maker's Mark but behind something like Henry McKenna BIB. This is pretty high praise from me for a craft whiskey. Most craft whiskies I would rate in the 2-5/10 range. J. Henry out of Wisconsin has some decent 5 year old bourbon which I think you can get barrel proof as well.

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On ‎11‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 12:46 AM, EarthQuake said:

 

 

Of course everyone's tastes are different and that is part of what makes all of this interesting. What are other bourbons do you usually like?

 

 

Speaking very generally,  I usually go for Old Forester and Wild Turkey,   and disfavor Heaven Hill.   But taste tells, and one of the best bourbons I've had this year was HH juice -  the 10 year old Rebel Yell single barrel.

 

All I can saw about the Few Bourbon is once I opened the bottle, it was drained in a matter of weeks.   It went great with food,  and found myself returning to it time and again.   When I re-up,  I'll post some tasting notes.   Interesting thing about the Few bourbon and rye - they're exactly the same except the corn and rye are switched in the mashbill.   But I preferred the "corniness" of the bourbon.   

 

The best craft bourbons I've had recently,  besides the Few, are David E straight bourbon (from Hidden Still here in PA),  Black Dirt 3-year old bourbon, from the Hudson Valley, and J.P.Trodden, from Washington State.    For what it's worth, neither the Few bourbon or rye are labelled as straights, although they both taste old enough to be straights.   Might be a matter of some flavoring added, as with Templeton Rye.   Just a guess, though.  

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5 hours ago, Jazzhead said:

Speaking very generally,  I usually go for Old Forester and Wild Turkey,   and disfavor Heaven Hill.   But taste tells, and one of the best bourbons I've had this year was HH juice -  the 10 year old Rebel Yell single barrel.

 

All I can saw about the Few Bourbon is once I opened the bottle, it was drained in a matter of weeks.   It went great with food,  and found myself returning to it time and again.   When I re-up,  I'll post some tasting notes.   Interesting thing about the Few bourbon and rye - they're exactly the same except the corn and rye are switched in the mashbill.   But I preferred the "corniness" of the bourbon.   

 

The best craft bourbons I've had recently,  besides the Few, are David E straight bourbon (from Hidden Still here in PA),  Black Dirt 3-year old bourbon, from the Hudson Valley, and J.P.Trodden, from Washington State.    For what it's worth, neither the Few bourbon or rye are labelled as straights, although they both taste old enough to be straights.   Might be a matter of some flavoring added, as with Templeton Rye.   Just a guess, though.  

That's very interesting, your preferences are very similar to mine. I love spicer bourbons like OF1920, WT (Russell's Reserve), 1792, Four Roses. I also don't like Heaven Hill's rye mash bourbons, or well, not until they're 15+ years old (EC18, Orphan Barrels, etc), and then I love them. I'm not a big fan of wheaters in general but I do like HH's wheat mash (Old Fitz, Rebel Yell 10).

 

I'll be curious to see your tasting notes with Few. When I was there they told me most of the stuff they bottle is 2-3 years old, and hinted that they are holding some back for older bottlings, hopefully in full sized barrels.

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