Bourbon year end 2019 - State of the State.

[flahute]

This is now my 2nd annual post on this this topic and as I said last year, warning, it's a long one.

There are some new things to talk about but a lot that hasn't changed so some of this will read very much like last year. 

 

It's time to reflect on the overall state of Bourbonia at this year's end. There is much to discuss. We've been collectively discussing the pertinent topics all year: new releases, lost age statements (but maybe some coming back?), discontinued products, whether or not we're at the peak of the boom (an evergreen topic if there ever was one), rising prices, the preponderance of sourced bourbon labels selling for silly money with taters falling all over themselves to get in while they have a chance (yes, this is not new but it's reached surprisingly new heights this year. Smoke Wagon anyone?) LE frustrations, etc.

These are my personal ruminations and observations from the past year. They are informed by my personal experiences in my home market, my numerous trips to Kentucky and who I talk to, what I read and verify out in the Wild West of social media, and of course what I discuss with you all here.

Please note that I'm not trying to be exhaustive nor have I exhaustively researched it. If I get any facts wrong, correct me. Also, add your own thoughts as your experiences and home market might lead you to different conclusions.

 

To start, I'll say that despite the catalog of frustrations from the past year, the State of Bourbonia is still very strong, though I think a step back has been taken compared to last year, but still strong.

 

We'll do a distillery by distillery review and I'll stick with the majors.

I'll start with Buffalo Trace for reasons which should be obvious and the others will follow in no particular order.

 

Buffalo Trace: Very little has changed from last year. Buffalo Traces remains the 800 lb. gorilla and canary in the coal mine at the same time. The annual PVW and BTAC releases still dominate the fall and are the most chased and discussed releases of the year. BT has this figured this out and it continues to baffle me why the other distilleries are content to let BT dominate this arena. BT is the only distillery outside of Four Roses (and Old Forester....sort of) that has a consistently released LE product that everyone looks forward to every year. The other distilleries have their LE's of course, but they change from year to year and/or are released at odd times of the year and don't generate as much buzz.

 

We still see the influx of new blood in the hobby that immediately shoots for PVW and BTAC before trying much of anything else. When they can't get it, many of them still default to anything else they can get from BT. This is of course why all Weller products remain strictly allocated in most markets. Elmer T Lee, Rock Hill Farms, Hancock's. They all remain strictly limited. Even Blanton's is still extremely limited in most markets. If you want a sign of where we are in the boom cycle, see the social media posts of the people who are extremely excited to "score" a Blanton's. Eagle Rare is a tough find in many markets and we all know that the single barrel program was suspended for 2018. The good news is that it did come back in limited fashion this year as I recently did a pick with my local. Unlike the last time where we got what they sent us without tasting before committing to it, we at least got to pick from three samples. We got a good, but not great barrel, so they still have some recovering to do. The namesake bourbon - it also can be a tough find. It's out there plenty but it still sells out quickly. I'm not positive, but I think it's eased a bit on this. What's it like in your market? The EH Taylor line: also strictly allocated in many markets and when regularly available, the pricing is often a turn off for those of us who've been around for a while. (I'm not even going to get into the Amaranth release which is ridiculous because we all know the taters will lap it up so you can't blame BT for putting this stuff out there.) Stagg Jr. remains a bright spot for those who can easily find it and recent reviews of recent batches are incredibly positive so kudos to BT for putting this out there at an attainable price.

 

Like last year, if BT is the canary in the coal mine, the canary is telling us that BT products across the board are still in very high demand and that supply is not yet there. As it relates to discussions about the boom, Sazerac is betting on it continuing for a good while with the massive expansions that have already been completed and that are still on the way. TBT likes to remind us all of what is coming down the pike and for BT it will not be soon enough.

 

Barton 1792: I forgot about these guys last year and mbroo politely pointed that out so I'll get them in here right after BT since they are both owned by Sazerac.

I remain steadfast in my opinion they absolutely hit a home run with the High Rye. As smokinjoe pointed out a while back, I really hope that Barton doesn't forget what they did with that one because it's great. However, as I found out when I made it BOTM, too many of you still haven't had this one show up in your market. That disappoints me quite a bit and I sincerely hope that Barton will increase production on this. We know that they remain a supplier for the bulk sourced barrel market so they have the capacity so I'd like to see them find what they do best and make it more regular. Like High Rye.

I still really like Sweet Wheat. I'd drink it every day if I could and it's a welcome addition to the wheater ranks given how ridiculous it is to get any of the Wellers. As I've said before, Larceny is generally crap to me and Makers always tastes too young but Sweet Wheat? It's a damn fine pour. Make this more available Barton!

Generally speaking, the 1792 SiB is way over priced in my market so I ignore it. As I pointed out last year though, I participated in a 1792 FP store pick and the one we picked was a complete winner so that has me looking forward to more.

Overall, Barton is winning for me though I think they have room for improvement.

 

Jim Beam: Unchanged from last year is that Jim Beam still simultaneously delights me and frustrates me. I said last year that Knob Creek NAS is still good, but this year I had to amend that as I thought it really fell off. The good news for us all is that the 9 year age statement is coming back so kudos to Beam for that! Seriously, when have we seen an age statement come back in the modern era of the boom? KCSiB is usually great and the number of single barrels out there in the 12-14yr age range for a great price is amazing. Some of these are simply superb. And this past year I was able to stock up on even more of these before the well ran dry. Younger Beam doesn't do it for me so the Distiller's Cut and Bonded expressions don't get me excited but I know that they work for a lot of you at a great price. Baker's is one that I used to love but the price point remained a head scratcher as quality fell off for me. They of course did a full revamp of this brand with the single barrel expression and the addition of the 13yr expression. I'm intrigued by these changes but none of these new products have reached my market yet so I can't comment. I do acknowledge that some of you have responded positively to the quality while being skeptical of the price. Seems to be how it goes with Beam and their Suntory directed "premiumization" efforts which means little more than "higher prices" to trick people into believing certain products are "premium". We are now more than a year removed from Beam crapping the the bed with the Booker's price hike followed by the partial retreat. They have not regained their goodwill with me as I am still not a buyer but I see some of you wading back in so the calculated risk may be paying off for them. Booker's still seems too young to me. On a positive note, Old Grand Dad remains unchanged and that is a very good thing.

Where Beam STILL really frustrates me is with the LE's. They can't get their heads out of their butts and release a consistently great product that the consumer wants. When they do get it right, they want $300 for it. When they get it wrong (which happens a lot) they still want $150 for it. And they are all over the map. It's as if they suddenly realize they have a group of barrels on the verge of going over the hill so they scramble to come up with a LE expression to deal with it. What they don't have is a yearly release of something that everyone looks forward to. (Hey Beam - see Buffalo Trace above. They have it figured out!). Beam has the whiskey. 12 year old Booker's anyone? Barrel strength Basil's? Cask strength Knob Rye with a desirable age statement? 10 year old Baker's at cask strength? (They may be close with the 13yr!) So many options that people would love. Still need to figure it out Beam. You got better this year but are still missing the mark.

 

Maker's Mark: I said last year that there just isn't anything to get excited about here and for me it hasn't changed a bit. They clearly have their core fans because they sell their whiskey, but those core fans aren't us. It's too bad because I really welcome a regularly available wheater on the market. It's just too damn young. If they could set some barrels aside for an extra 2-3 years I would probably buy it by the case. Maker's 46 still tastes weird to me and the whole barrel stave finish program can result in some really good bourbon. It just seems so hard to predict with accuracy what you will get. I'm not sold on it yet. I know that some of you have had good results with the MMCS, but every bottle of it that I have had still tastes too young to me. Perhaps it's just out of my wheelhouse, but I think that if they would just commit to an extra aged expression - even if just an annual LE, that they would sell the hell out of it and have people talking excitedly about MM. The stave finishes are one offs for individuals and stores. They need something repeatable that happens year after year. You can do this Maker's Mark!

 

Heaven Hill: Last year I said that Heaven Hill still mostly delights me. This is the year that they really let me down. There's still something for everyone across their core brands. The lost age statement on EC still lingers as a negative when you know that Knob Creek's is coming back. EC NAS is not great to me but does work for some. That is offset by the private barrel program, however, which has been going strong and which has provided me with multiple great barrels. ECBP is consistently superb and is regularly available to me and is still great. I do have to give credit where it's due for HH to provide a 12yr old barrel proof bourbon consistently. The same product in a WFE bottle would cost $200 or more. McKenna BIB is still a favorite but has been largely impossible ever since the Whiskey of the Year award last year and of course the prices have gone up. Larceny still befuddles me. I still think they are bottling it too young and my group passed up the opportunity to select a single barrel because all the barrels were bad. Pikesville remains great and a favorite. Where Heaven Hill is STILL really hit and miss is with the Parker's Heritage Collection. They get it right in that it's a yearly fall release but when they do something like a younger bourbon finished in curaçao casks like last year, the ballon deflates rather quickly. This year's rye whiskey in a number 5 char was divisive. Two years of extra aging above Pikesville at 5 less proof points for more than twice the price? What the heck? They still can hit on their gift shop releases such as William Heaven Hill, Select Stock, the Old Fitz BIB, etc. but they unfortunately had some big misses this year. The past two times I was there they had WHH at 12 yrs old for typical WHH prices which is close to $300. Why would I spend that when I can get ECBP at 12 yrs old? Those prices should be reserved for 14+ yr old barrels that are special. They had an 18yr old wheated Select Stock that generated some buzz. Unfortunately, it was a blend of two barrels. I say "unfortunately" because I had the privilege of trying one of those barrels right out of the barrel and it was seriously on of the best whiskies I've ever had. They combined it with another barrel to get a better yield and in the course of doing that seriously downgraded the barrel I tried while charging Select Stock prices for it.

Now - we haven't even talked about the demise of the HH6yr BIB yet. We can all acknowledge that we were getting too good of a deal on this one for many years so we can't fault HH for deciding that they needed to make a little money on this. But seriously, you take it away talking about overall supply concerns only to bring it back later in the year with one extra year of age and a 400% price increase? Really? Do you disrespect us that much? But it gets worse. We then see a TTB label approval for a 6yr BIB finished in barrels that held coffee beans as part of the Select Stock program. I haven't seen a price on that yet but we all know that anything having the Select Stock label isn't cheap. Again, really Heaven Hill? Do you really think we are that stupid? Heaven Hill, a family owned distillery, which means something in the era of corporate buyouts, has in my opinion shed much of the goodwill they've built up with bourbon enthusiasts over the past decade. Nobody expects a company to give a product away, and we understand the need to make a profit because you are a business, but this is the year that you crossed the line into unabashed greed and that is disappointing.

 

 

Brown Forman: This is another distillery that STILL can't get their heads out of their butts with limiteds and special releases. There's still way too much giving the customer what they don't want for the privilege of a high price. The Master's Collection falls flat just about every time. WR Batch Proof was great, but for $125? Really? Woodford has the whiskey but they have no idea how to market it outside of their core product. Old Forester is doing a lot better. I've recently learned that Old Fo barrel picks will be available at barrel proof next year. This is an incredible development. They also cleared a label for a "batch proof" which is exciting. Both of these respond directly to a point I brought up last year so thank you Old Forester! I can't wait to try these. They still have a hit with 1920. The others in the Whiskey Row series are good but are a bit redundant given the price points. Last year I said that Birthday Bourbon allocations have all but dried up in my market and this hasn't changed. I used to be a BB apologist despite the criticisms but I can't get my hands on it anymore so I don't have a current opinion. 

Jack Daniels - they released the Heritage Barrel this year. It didn't do much for me but I know many of you liked it. Not a big needle mover either way. I assume the JDSiBBP is still great but I haven't had one in a while.

 

Wild Turkey: Not much change from last year so this will read almost verbatim as last year which isn't bad. The core expressions remain strong. 101 tasted great this year and remains one of the great values. Rare Breed consistently is a favorite. RR10yr, though not loved by all, remains one of my sleeper values still. I haven't had a bad RRSiB yet. Kentucky Spirit still eludes me because of the price point. It's great bourbon, I'm just not going to put it in my cart when I can get SiB at 110 proof for just a couple more dollars. RRSiB Rye can be one of the best ryes out there. Just need supply to catch up. The only place WT could do better would again be with the LE's and this is a consistent theme brought up by many. I haven't had a chance to try the Cornerstone Rye but I hear very mixed reviews. I liked the Decades and 17yr from the past few years just fine. The only thing they could do better in my opinion is again - something yearly you can count on and look forward to such as a 12yr 101 or something at true barrel strength. I've spent enough time with Eddie to know that he knows what the customer wants. It's a matter of convincing the suits at Campari. The one-offs like Decades are great. You just can't build yearly momentum with them. Come on Campari - listen to Eddie and Bruce. They know what we want.

 

Four Roses: Last year I said "Boy how things have changed at Four Roses. Once the runaway darlings of the bourbon enthusiast community they still face the crisis of confidence they are still recovering from since the departure of Jim Rutledge a few years ago." Well, I'm happy to say that things are looking up. It seems that Brent Elliot is settling in and hitting his stride in his new role. They continue to recover from the years of committing so much distillate and warehouse space to Bulleit but it seems that the throttling of the private barrel program has allowed stocks to recover a bit. They still have a ways to go but it's better than a year ago. I'm hearing from some of you that the standard single barrel expression is returning to its consistent great profile after being inconsistent for a while. I'm seeing more availability and increasing ages in the single barrel program. You can't pick from all 10 recipes yet like before but it's good to see some of the ages creeping back up and 8 out of 10 recipes is better than a year ago. This year's LE Small Batch is one of the best ones in a number of years so kudos to Brent for making this process into his own and stepping out of the shadow of Jim Rutledge. On a sad note, we heard of the passing of Al Young on Christmas Day. An institution at Four Roses since 1967, Al will be incredibly missed. Barrel picks won't be the same without him and I'll miss the stories he could tell. Rest In Peace Al.

 

If you've read this far, thanks for putting up with this! Let me know what you all think.

 

 

 

 

 

[GaryT]

Well thought out and articulated post Steve!  The couple areas I might disagree you had acknowledged as YMMV (like Distiller's Cut, etc).  I had the exact same reaction to the 12yr WHH the last time at the BHC (laughed myself out of a purchase).  

 

I know the 'craft' producers are too numerous to try to call out (and mostly unworthy), but I'd offer that folks like New Riff who are doing it right (full sized barrels, waiting 4 yrs minimum) are an encouraging sign.  When the bubble bursts, they'll have a chance where most of the craft folks will likely go under (although they're not really 'craft' as much as 'small scale' perhaps).  Still have a few years before Lux Row and BBC are producing enough to be worthy.

 

Thanks for taking the time!  Hope you have a great 2020!

[fosmith]

Great read and analysis.  Thanks.  One comment, though.  I think you should have given Heaven Hill a bit of credit for the Evan Williams line.  The Black label and bottled in bond are some of the best value (and tasting) budget bourbons out there. 

[Kyjd75]

Great analysis and fun read.  How about a supplement with your thoughts about Willett, as I know you have been talking and visiting with them this last year.  Your criticisms of Beam are interesting especially, as I have for some strange reason become an unabashed Beam fan in recent years.  The new Bakers is really good, and I have returned to drinking Bookers as well.  Eric has a 15.5 yr KCSiB selection coming soon, so definitely have something to look forward to.  All in all, though, you have done well.

Edited December 31, 2019 by Kyjd75

[The Black Tot]

A great read 2 years in a row, Steve. Thanks for writing it. And for the rest of my fun, my 2019 response!

 

Last year, for the months that I was in country I was actively doing what I refer to as the "redneck barrel pick", where I stop at all kinds of stores and try their store selections trying to find a winner. My results were so much worse than previous years in late 2018/2019, that by the end of the year and for the foreseeable future, my involvement status in bourbon has become "Stand back and let everyone else rush in and pay record high prices for record strained stocks." Most times when I see people buying the recent LEs (stalwarts like BTAC excluded), I'm thinking "At that price tag, better you than me."

 

So y'all won't have much competition from me in the liquor store in 2020. I prefer to strike while the iron is hot, and right now, it's cold as ice.

 

I bought a few of the buzz bottles this year to keep my finger on the pulse of what's going on. I thought Cornerstone was KERAZY expensive for a product that may have been 17yrs old, but was still only "just regular good" as a whiskey. Old Forester Rye is delicious and more importantly, very uniquely so. Banana popsicle and fudge - pretty cool. I tried the much praised OF1920 and while I thought it was good, it isn't 55-60 dollars good. 

 

Lots of people keep insisting that this whiskey boom is only going one way, forever - but that ain't the way this industry has EVER worked, and this year I believe we smashed through all previous production records from the 70s. I can wait. 

 

I'd actually like Maker's to offer a MMCS barrel program - No, I don't want to monkey around with your flavor sticks. I want to buy a good barrel of your best bourbon at cask strength. 

 

Fundamentally Four Roses is a different company now. I used to really enjoy the tours there - it was informal, friendly. Now it's corporate AF. I still buy the small batch by the case as a house bourbon, but now that the single barrels are above 80 bucks with still no sign of stopping...again, I'm on the sidelines until further notice. I know that most of the majors are corporate in their behavior as well, but 4R used to differentiate themselves on that front. The last tour I had there, after all the good ones over the years, was depressing.

 

I am getting nervous about the lack of news about a Jim Rutledge distillery. Would love this, obvi.

 

Still excited about Castle and Key, and their gins are delicious (and 107 proof so they hold up in a tonic) and I'll buy them by the case and use them in any and all US cocktails, although one of my friends is allergic to coriander(cilantro), which is in about 99% of gin recipes, so I do need to have some custom choices to hand for her.

 

I've lost touch with the state of MGP pricing for their bulk product, but I had heard that demand was down? Could be wrong about this. It would make sense now that there are many other contract distilling options for people these days. Would love to hear SA was filling their rack houses with MGP again, but that doesn't mean it's on the cards now that they got bought. Personally I hate the Dickel note, so I'm not following them down that road.

 

Keen to see what Bardstown Bourbon Company gets up to in the next couple of years.

 

I still haven't had my "Wild Turkey Moment", although I do enjoy the 101 and will order it at a bar when available. Maybe this year, but with my general lack of initiative during the bubble circus, I doubt it.

 

HH - Who is even the master distiller there now, after all the recent upheaval? I can't really call myself disappointed with the company that makes Pikesville - but they DO need to let me pick a barrel of it. 

 

Beam still has not delivered on their hint that they'd open up OGD stocks for barrel selection. Booker's has not recovered in age, quality, or price. KC honey barrels appear to be mostly picked over. Baker's 13 can FORGET IT for that price. The 9yr cask strength rye tastes great but I'm not a buyer at over $50. But I love Beam, they will recover. They're filling barrels like madmen.

 

Barrel proof OF sounds good. They still need new leadership. For the amount of whiskey they make, Brown Forman should have a higher profile with enthusiasts than they do. 

 

Really excited to see all the 10yr+ MGP coming out of the minor NDPs, which we predicted several years ago. No, I'm not paying 80 bucks for it. I'll be around when you get it down to 50. I went to Nelson's Greenbriar distillery last year to see what Belle Meade was about, and the pricing turned my stomach. Easy pass.

 

Buffalo Trace - Still holding up their quality so far. Their expansion has been pretty epic - pretty much fivefold vs their previous production. The larger fermenters went in this summer, which is huge for them. WSR is back on the shelves, CHEAP, in Texas. I still don't buy it because I'd rather they age that liquid instead of chopping it off at the knees. One of the saddest recent developments was $50 OWA. Looks like I'm looking for another wheater staple now (and it ain't Larceny). I have some leads on that. Mashbill #2? Whatever - I'll see you when you get back.

 

So, 2020 is about to begin. More people every day are losing their damned minds about whiskey and what it should cost, and most of the ones who lost theirs several years ago have not regained their senses.  And the start of the whiskey tsunami is still 2-3 more years down the line. So, prices will be dumb again this year. It's definitely jading me even further than I already was.

 

But I've been doing well with rum (although prices are also sharply on the rise in that category too), and I hear tell 2019 was a great grow year for European wine, so the first of those 1yr old vintages should drop in 2020 - maybe I'll do some road tripping on the continent. And there is still the odd unusual whisky/whiskey move to be made when one least expects it. A nimble and adaptive approach is required for turbulent times. 

 

But mostly I'm on bourbon buying hiatus in this unprecedented seller's market. The bunker overfloweth with deliciousness.

 

Have a NYE pour for me - I'm still stuck on a boat probably until the end of Jan.

[Richnimrod]

THANX, Steve!   As before, a well-considered, and useful compilation of thoughts and experiences, along with a good dose of your valued opinions.   

The subsequent posters, as well!     

This is where StraightBourbon really does shine; for newbies, afficionados, experts (and those that think they are); as well as the folx like me that just really love hearing some of the knowledgeable opinions, to gauge how my understanding and opinions differ, or match up.   

I hafta say, I agree with almost all of the statements, opinions, and other stuph above, ....or at least see how these thoughts could, or do, make sense given the current conditions of the Industry.

Last thought... Didn't love 1792 High Rye as much as (apparently) everybody else.   Much rather have a bottle of the 1792 BIB (but at about $20 less, like the high Rye was).

[flahute]

9 hours ago, GaryT said:

Well thought out and articulated post Steve!  The couple areas I might disagree you had acknowledged as YMMV (like Distiller's Cut, etc).  I had the exact same reaction to the 12yr WHH the last time at the BHC (laughed myself out of a purchase).  

 

I know the 'craft' producers are too numerous to try to call out (and mostly unworthy), but I'd offer that folks like New Riff who are doing it right (full sized barrels, waiting 4 yrs minimum) are an encouraging sign.  When the bubble bursts, they'll have a chance where most of the craft folks will likely go under (although they're not really 'craft' as much as 'small scale' perhaps).  Still have a few years before Lux Row and BBC are producing enough to be worthy.

 

Thanks for taking the time!  Hope you have a great 2020!

Thanks for the comments Gary!

 

The thing I should point about Beam with Distiller's Cut is to give them credit for introducing some new products that are budget friendly with qualities that enthusiasts value, such as being NCF. This balances out the crazy price for the Baker's 13.

 

I agree that we could talk about New Riff on this list. Unfortunately, their reach is still very limited and we haven't seen any of it out here yet so I really can't say much about them other than what I hear, which is all good. I did get to tour their facility about 3 years ago with Jim Rutledge and was impressed by where they were at that time so I have high hopes for when their product is more widely available.

[flahute]

9 hours ago, fosmith said:

Great read and analysis.  Thanks.  One comment, though.  I think you should have given Heaven Hill a bit of credit for the Evan Williams line.  The Black label and bottled in bond are some of the best value (and tasting) budget bourbons out there. 

This is a fair point. Black label doesn't do it for me but the EWBIB is good and also a great value. The EW line is a legacy brand for them and they can't mess with it due to how popular it is and because it's nationwide. This is why it perplexes me that they said they needed to discontinue the 6yr bonded at the old price because they were losing money on it. By the time they made this decision it was only available in a limited fashion in KY only. To bring it back how they did with a new package and a huge price increase shows us that they are trying to capitalize on the new blood coming into bourbon who won't know any better what it was and who will think it's normal to pay that price for 7yr old bonded whiskey. They know they are going to piss us off and are betting that the sheer number of new bloods will pick up that slack and more.

 

Bigger picture, thinking about HH, I think they are adrift in the post Larry Kass world. Going back farther, the passing of Parker Beam way too early due to ALS followed by the inability for his son Craig Beam to take the reigns (which is a whole other story) left a big void that Larry Kass. He was their voice and the conscious and was plugged in to the enthusiast crowd. I met him on numerous occasions and found him to genuinely care about how the brand could connect with its fans in meaningful ways. When he retired it seems liked things changed. Denny Potter left for MM. They have a new master distiller that nobody knows about who didn't come up through the HH system. This is not criticism of him by any means. It's just to point out that he has a long road ahead to carve out his vision and how it impacts and sets the tone for the distillery. He doesn't have a voice yet. If Larry Kass was still here, he would be out talking about the changes. As of now, we have no face for the brand or a person to go to. I'm hopeful that they'll find their footing and become approachable again.

[PaulO]

Hey Steve,

Can you change the background to dark, with light text.

The white background is too difficult to read a long post.

[geclbxf]

One of my favorite posts and I look forward to reading it every New Year.

 

Happy New Year all!

[flahute]

On 12/31/2019 at 7:24 AM, Kyjd75 said:

Great analysis and fun read.  How about a supplement with your thoughts about Willett, as I know you have been talking and visiting with them this last year.  Your criticisms of Beam are interesting especially, as I have for some strange reason become an unabashed Beam fan in recent years.  The new Bakers is really good, and I have returned to drinking Bookers as well.  Eric has a 15.5 yr KCSiB selection coming soon, so definitely have something to look forward to.  All in all, though, you have done well.

Thanks for the note and I should clarify that I'm very much a fan of Beam. They lose me as the products get younger so KC losing the age statement was a big turn off for me (I tried it earlier this year and just didn't like it) but they've solved that by bringing the age statement back. We'll have to see at what price of course. Baker's was always a favorite and I was one of those who sang its praises on these pages in the past few years. But, my last bottle of it also underwhelmed and tasted too young which leads me to believe that older bottles had whiskey that was older than 7 years in it. They've completely revamped the line as we now know but those new products haven't reached me yet so I can't comment on those at this time. I am completely with you on these older KCSiB's in the 13-15 yr age range. I've now been a part of three picks in that range (and have bought others) and this is some of the best whiskey on the market right now. Booker's is still too highly priced in my market so I haven't returned. If the price came down, or, the age came back up a bit, I would wade back in.

 

Willett: my thoughts are mixed. I'm a big fan of what they do but they are under such extreme pressure that they are forced to price their products and limit their availability to the point where it's hard to find any consistency. Now to be clear, I don't blame them. The tater factor has forced their hand in this. Would I prefer their pricing to be more normal and regularly available? Of course. But if the taters are going to lap up their products and sell them on secondary to other taters who can't get enough then I'm happy that Willett is getting a big chunk of that pie which allows them to expand and stay independently and family owned and debt free. As for their distillate, they are still trying to determine what they have and what age the various mashbills will shine. With the oldest distillate now in the high 7's of age, there is still some time to wait. One thing with their distillate that I struggle with is the dominant cinnamon red hots flavor. Some call this a flaw. Some call it their house style. I'm not sure which is which. I find it to be too strong. It's more prevalent at a younger age and diminishes a bit at older ages. I also find it less prevalent on the lower barrel entry proof and high corn mashbills. It's very prevalent though on the wheaters. With something like four bourbon mashbills and the fact that we aren't fully into the window of time for distillate aging that represents any modifications they made to their processes to fix any flaws from the early runs it's too hard to really judge them yet. Now, I did a pick with my local last year and we found two bourbons that we thought were great (with very little cinnamon) but they aren't in yet. By the time they arrive they should both be well into the 7yr age range so we'll have to see how they turn out. I'm optimistic.

We haven't talked about the rye yet, but it's generally very highly regarded by everyone who's had it at 4yrs and above.

[Supercharger]

Love this. 
 

Perhaps I missed it, but, no mention of WB Saffell in the Turkey/Campari synopsis? I thought that was a huge win and a much better product than the Cornerstone. 

[Jazzhead]

My favorite bourbons have traditionally been Old Forester and Wild Turkey,  and the story of the last year for me is just how much I've been smitten by Beam.    The non-chill filtered Distiller's Cut and the Bonded for under 20 bucks are amazing for everyday consumption with food,  and for sipping I've rediscovered the blended masterpiece that isBooker's and swooned to Little Book.   And the Knob Creek cask strength rye!    This is the best of the Kentucky-style ryes with prominent corn in the mashbill.    

 

As someone who still has a few of the classic Old Forester dimpled bottles,  and have always loved the brand,  I can say that Old Forester these days is better than ever.   Their mashbill is, for me, the perfect balance of sweet vanilla and leather,  and it's now available in a half dozen permutations,  include the new single barrel, high proof 1920, and the  perfect-proof small batch of specially-selected barrels that is Statesman.  

 

I'm disappointed that Wild Turkey is losing the classic Gobbler bottle for Kentucky Spirit.   And I've not yet tried the Forgiven or Longbranch.    But that;s because there's just no earthly  reason to switch from Rare Breed or Russell's Reserve SiB.    It's hard enough to choose between high-proof batched and single barrel versions of this majestic, classic drink.  Glad these products are as high quality as ever.  

 

I echo the praise for New Riff - I agree with the basic idea that if you like the flavor profile of the legacy Kentucky distillers,  the craft distiller that comes closest to replicating it is New Riff.   

 

Other craft bourbons I've enjoyed this year include Balcones (different because they use roasted blue corn).   Peerless (better than their rye and lacking the grassy roughness of so much craft bourbon),   David E (a local product from Hidden Still and obviously well made), Hudson Baby Bourbon (100% corn and greatly improved with bigger barrels and longer aging) and  Wilderness Trail (wheated bourbon using a sweet mash process similar to Peerless) .  But the best craft whiskey I had this year is also the best wheated bourbon I've likely ever had - McKenzie Bottled in Bond.   This is dangerously sweet, burnished, drinkable stuff,   unfortunately at the moment gone but not to be forgotten.  Since I can't get it,  all I can say is if you can, count your lucky stars.  

 

Happy New Year, folks!  

 

 

 

 

Edited January 2, 2020 by Jazzhead

[JoeTerp]

@flahute  Absolutely love the post and all the thought that went into it.  My biggest disagreement with you would be in regard to the limited releases.  I think the other distilleries are making some good progress on this front.  In honor of you I'll throw my $0.02 in here for the major distilleries and include some others with my thoughts as well.

 

Buffalo Trace - They are absolutely dominating the market right now.  With the continued explosion of the bourbon market and so many new people coming into bourbon and bourbon collecting (a term I really despise) it seems that everyone starts with Buffalo Trace with Blanton's being treated by newcomers as a unicorn and their holy grail of bourbon.  I get it as Blanton's is a great product for a beginner as: it's a quality product, great packaging, premium price point but still generally affordable, and under 100 proof so it's not going to melt a whiskey beginner's face off.  A year ago I used to call my local shop on delivery day and ask if anything good came in and he would either tell me no, or answer what limited items arrived that day.  Now when I call the same store the items being rattled off most frequently are Blanton's, Buffalo Trace, Eagle Rare, EH Taylor Small Batch, and Angel's Envy (congrats on making it in there).  And if you want to get the Blanton's you would usually have to be at the store when they open.  One area that I think they do get some extra credit for is that a lot of people seem to love Stagg Jr Batch 12 (132.3 proof) that was released this year with some even saying it's as good or better than it's daddy this year.

 

1792 - Their line extension continues to be a great thing for them as all of the non Small Batch products are harder to come by around here. 

 

Beam - I think they found their yearly LE with Little Book.  I admittedly didn't much care for the first two releases, but really enjoyed this year's release.  It will be interesting to see what they have in store for future releases as the third release seemed to be their best but was blended with their core product line where the first two tried to be a little more distinctive.  I think this shows that they would have the ability to release annual LE Booker's (which could just be regular Booker's with 8,9, or 10 year age statements rather than the last 21 which have been sub 7 years)  or a higher proof Basil Hayden's.

 

Maker's Mark - I think RC6 is going to mark the direction they are going here.  It seemed to be pretty well received and they should be able to come out with yearly versions similar to this.

 

Heaven Hill - I continue to love the ECBP releases (although I think I've only tried the B519 of the 2019 versions).  The OFBIB decanters continue to be really popular line extensions (the pretty bottle sure helps as these sell regardless of the reviews, which seem to be mixed).

 

Brown Forman - I haven't been a fan of Woodford Reserve in the past, but I did really like this year's Batch Proof when I tried it blind.  I haven't loved the OFBB's that I've tried so I don't put much effort or money into trying to track them down.  They continue to be a hit and given the market I see further price creep coming.  The Masters Collection seems to be mostly misses with a few nice ones sprinkled in.  The Whiskey Row series is a hit, but seems to be done on introducing new products.  I did enjoy the JDSBBP that I've tried.

 

Wild Turkey - I like the Master's Keep series and am glad they've kept it going.  I enjoyed the Cornerstone Rye pours that I've had.  I got to try a couple of dusty turkey products (thank you to @Jazz June ) this year and really enjoyed them.  I also continue to be a big fan of the Russell's Reserve Single Barrel picks that I've tried and find them consistently very good.  My biggest knock on them is that I did not enjoy Russell's Reserve 2002 which I finally opened up recently.  In a very non-scientific blind tasting with friends it finished in 8th place out of 8 (both for me personally and for the group at large).  Now it was a fresh crack so hopefully it either grows on me or improves with time.

 

Four Roses - I continue to love Four Roses.  It was nice to see some of the O's come back in stock (I even was able to purchase an OESO earlier this year) and there was an OBSK sighting in DC recently too.  I opened up a LESmB 2017 this year and have enjoyed it, but I absolutely loved the 2018 version I tried this year.  Hearing great things about the 2019 too and really looking forward to trying it at some point in 2020.  Small Batch Select was a nice line extension as well and I hope it's distribution can grow a bit this year.

 

Whistle Pig - I continue to enjoy all the store picks of this that I've tried including a really great 12 year 120.8 proof one I got near year end.  They get a lot of complaints about their pricing but I think for premium rye their cask strengths single barrels are one of the better values out there at around $90 for a 10+ year barrel proof rye.  Their pricing on the Boss Hog series continues to be way out of line as these just sit and sit at retail.  Secondary pricing on them continues to be well below the retail MSRP.  Release 4 (I think the first at the new MSRP of $500) eventually sold as it was really favorably received for everything but the price.  The more recent releases (both 5 and 6) continue to sit around though as reviews for 5 weren't nearly as positive.  I'm not sure why retailers would want to carry this if they can't move it at MSRP.

 

Kentucky Owl - I still have yet to try any of their bourbons, but I really loved Batch 1 of the rye.  I tried Batch 2 and liked it but not as much as Batch 1 and the price shot up.  Haven't tried Batch 3 yet but reviews seem to be closer in line to batch 1 and it seemed like this may have been a smaller batch as I didn't see nearly as much of it around as Batch 2.

 

Smooth Ambler - It was nice to see them go back to sourced MGP.  Their own distillate didn't seem to be nearly as well received and the Single Barrel Select products sourced from Dickel were not particularly good either.  It will be interesting to see where they go in 2020 as their only real success to date has been with MGP distillate.

 

New Riff - I got to try their BIB bourbon and rye, along with their cask strength bourbon and a few store picks of their cask strength bourbon.  I did not care for the rye but have enjoyed all the bourbons from them that I've tried.  I've been very impressed with the cask strength offerings and the pick that I have open is really good and shocking to believe that it's just 4 years old.

 

Wilderness Trail - I've really enjoyed the ryes that I've had from Wilderness Trail and think that they and New Riff have been fantastic additions this year.

 

A Smith Bowman - Bowman was probably my favorite distillery of 2019.  Four of my more memorable pours of 2019 were from the Abraham line.  I absolutely loved the Sweet XVI , 12 year Port Finish, and Coffee Bean finished (weird in all the right ways for me) releases that I finally got to try this year.  They released two more Abrahams this year and both appear to be hits.  I really liked the hazmat bourbon (at 146.1 proof  and 14 years and 5 months).  I haven't gotten around to trying the Twice Finished but have heard really great things from those that have.  The distillery release for the Twice Finished was really well managed too so bonus points for them.  I find the John J Bowman single barrel to be one of the best regularly available products at VA ABC.  With the Sazerac backing I'm not sure why they don't try to expand their production.

 

[Jazzhead]

You're right, JoeTerp, about the John J. Bowman.    Not an easy find around these parts,  but absolutely delicious bourbon.   Probably my favorite (quasi) Buffalo Trace product.  

[JoeTerp]

1 hour ago, Jazzhead said:

You're right, JoeTerp, about the John J. Bowman.    Not an easy find around these parts,  but absolutely delicious bourbon.   Probably my favorite (quasi) Buffalo Trace product.  

It's the one thing that's way easier to find in VA than anywhere else.  Always on the shelf here and I think it compares favorably to some of the BT products that are significantly harder to find.

[flahute]

On 12/31/2019 at 8:28 AM, The Black Tot said:

A great read 2 years in a row, Steve. Thanks for writing it. And for the rest of my fun, my 2019 response!

 

Last year, for the months that I was in country I was actively doing what I refer to as the "redneck barrel pick", where I stop at all kinds of stores and try their store selections trying to find a winner. My results were so much worse than previous years in late 2018/2019, that by the end of the year and for the foreseeable future, my involvement status in bourbon has become "Stand back and let everyone else rush in and pay record high prices for record strained stocks." Most times when I see people buying the recent LEs (stalwarts like BTAC excluded), I'm thinking "At that price tag, better you than me."

 

So y'all won't have much competition from me in the liquor store in 2020. I prefer to strike while the iron is hot, and right now, it's cold as ice.

 

I bought a few of the buzz bottles this year to keep my finger on the pulse of what's going on. I thought Cornerstone was KERAZY expensive for a product that may have been 17yrs old, but was still only "just regular good" as a whiskey. Old Forester Rye is delicious and more importantly, very uniquely so. Banana popsicle and fudge - pretty cool. I tried the much praised OF1920 and while I thought it was good, it isn't 55-60 dollars good. 

 

Lots of people keep insisting that this whiskey boom is only going one way, forever - but that ain't the way this industry has EVER worked, and this year I believe we smashed through all previous production records from the 70s. I can wait. 

 

I'd actually like Maker's to offer a MMCS barrel program - No, I don't want to monkey around with your flavor sticks. I want to buy a good barrel of your best bourbon at cask strength. 

 

Fundamentally Four Roses is a different company now. I used to really enjoy the tours there - it was informal, friendly. Now it's corporate AF. I still buy the small batch by the case as a house bourbon, but now that the single barrels are above 80 bucks with still no sign of stopping...again, I'm on the sidelines until further notice. I know that most of the majors are corporate in their behavior as well, but 4R used to differentiate themselves on that front. The last tour I had there, after all the good ones over the years, was depressing.

 

I am getting nervous about the lack of news about a Jim Rutledge distillery. Would love this, obvi.

 

Still excited about Castle and Key, and their gins are delicious (and 107 proof so they hold up in a tonic) and I'll buy them by the case and use them in any and all US cocktails, although one of my friends is allergic to coriander(cilantro), which is in about 99% of gin recipes, so I do need to have some custom choices to hand for her.

 

I've lost touch with the state of MGP pricing for their bulk product, but I had heard that demand was down? Could be wrong about this. It would make sense now that there are many other contract distilling options for people these days. Would love to hear SA was filling their rack houses with MGP again, but that doesn't mean it's on the cards now that they got bought. Personally I hate the Dickel note, so I'm not following them down that road.

 

Keen to see what Bardstown Bourbon Company gets up to in the next couple of years.

 

I still haven't had my "Wild Turkey Moment", although I do enjoy the 101 and will order it at a bar when available. Maybe this year, but with my general lack of initiative during the bubble circus, I doubt it.

 

HH - Who is even the master distiller there now, after all the recent upheaval? I can't really call myself disappointed with the company that makes Pikesville - but they DO need to let me pick a barrel of it. 

 

Beam still has not delivered on their hint that they'd open up OGD stocks for barrel selection. Booker's has not recovered in age, quality, or price. KC honey barrels appear to be mostly picked over. Baker's 13 can FORGET IT for that price. The 9yr cask strength rye tastes great but I'm not a buyer at over $50. But I love Beam, they will recover. They're filling barrels like madmen.

 

Barrel proof OF sounds good. They still need new leadership. For the amount of whiskey they make, Brown Forman should have a higher profile with enthusiasts than they do. 

 

Really excited to see all the 10yr+ MGP coming out of the minor NDPs, which we predicted several years ago. No, I'm not paying 80 bucks for it. I'll be around when you get it down to 50. I went to Nelson's Greenbriar distillery last year to see what Belle Meade was about, and the pricing turned my stomach. Easy pass.

 

Buffalo Trace - Still holding up their quality so far. Their expansion has been pretty epic - pretty much fivefold vs their previous production. The larger fermenters went in this summer, which is huge for them. WSR is back on the shelves, CHEAP, in Texas. I still don't buy it because I'd rather they age that liquid instead of chopping it off at the knees. One of the saddest recent developments was $50 OWA. Looks like I'm looking for another wheater staple now (and it ain't Larceny). I have some leads on that. Mashbill #2? Whatever - I'll see you when you get back.

 

So, 2020 is about to begin. More people every day are losing their damned minds about whiskey and what it should cost, and most of the ones who lost theirs several years ago have not regained their senses.  And the start of the whiskey tsunami is still 2-3 more years down the line. So, prices will be dumb again this year. It's definitely jading me even further than I already was.

 

But I've been doing well with rum (although prices are also sharply on the rise in that category too), and I hear tell 2019 was a great grow year for European wine, so the first of those 1yr old vintages should drop in 2020 - maybe I'll do some road tripping on the continent. And there is still the odd unusual whisky/whiskey move to be made when one least expects it. A nimble and adaptive approach is required for turbulent times. 

 

But mostly I'm on bourbon buying hiatus in this unprecedented seller's market. The bunker overfloweth with deliciousness.

 

Have a NYE pour for me - I'm still stuck on a boat probably until the end of Jan.

TBT - as always I appreciate your thoughtful replies!

A few additional thoughts/replies to some of your points:

 

I completely agree with your sentiments about random store picks. It seems like too many stores will take whatever they can get just to have one. I remember about 5 years ago thinking to myself that given how ridiculous allocated bottles had become that private picks was where it was at and would be for the foreseeable future. I was right, at least for a while, and was lucky to have realized it when I did which was of course helped immensely be being in a barrel picking group which I supplemented by becoming one of the primary barrel pickers for my local store. The combined output of the group and the store has me set up for a very long time. I realize I'm fortunate and that many don't have this luxury. Back to your point, along the way I'd pick up a random store pick here and there when traveling and opened a few this past year and wow what a disappointment they were. I don't do that anymore.

 

I appreciate your thoughts on Four Roses. I haven't been on a tour or done anything outside of a barrel pick there since the remodel/expansion so I'm out of the loop a bit it seems. I remember the tour there being one of the best I had done. I do agree that the increasing prices of the private selection single barrels has become a big turn off. It's why I won't buy any locally or without trying first, which is rare you have that chance. Luckily, my group has done and continues to do our own picks and they are all fantastic so I know what I'm getting when I buy them. Additionally, because my interactions with the brand the past few years have essentially been with Brent Elliot, Mandy Vance (the manager of the private barrel program) and Al Young (man is he going to be missed), my negative view of Four Roses has started to turn. Granted, I'm in a privileged position there so I realize it may look different from outside that bubble. Hosting our charity event with them with this past November just galvanized that feeling even more because we saw how important it was to Brent to make this partnership happen and to do some good. They were very generous along the way and made some things available that had never been offered before. What I saw was an individual willing to buck the standard operating procedure of the corporate structure to do something cool and he made it happen with the help of Mandy. That was cool and it gave me a lot of hope that Four Roses is in good hands with Brent Elliot.

 

Regarding Jim's distillery - it's not dead yet. Hang tight.

 

Regarding MGP - demand was down because the prices got so high. If their goal was to determine the maximum price the market would bear, they overshot that by a bit.

 

Beam - yep, the extra aged honey barrels of KC appear to be gone or diverted to other projects where they can charge a lot more for them. Agree with you on Baker's 13 though I will likely buy at least one so I can decide for myself.

 

Brown Forman - totally agree. They could do some amazing things if they listened more to the enthusiasts and less to the marketing department.

 

We still need to get you off that boat so you can finally drink something!

[The Black Tot]

8 minutes ago, flahute said:

We still need to get you off that boat so you can finally drink something!

Amen to that, brother.

 

Last year turned into a rum year. I added around 200 bottles of rum to the bunker in what was truly a freak opportunity, 128 of them all of one type, and 40 of another (extinct, and I love it. Lifetime supply). 

 

I'm thinking 2020 will be a 50-70 bottle year, max. Working as much as I have been, I'm struggling to consume 20 a year! But that kind of stuff turns on a dime in this industry. When it's good, we fill the bunker!

 

Re: 4R, I remember well my best tours. Like I said, it used to be very fun and casual. We get to the tasting bar and it was "You guys know your stuff so how about we pour you a barrel pick instead of Yellow Label and Small batch?" Awesome. The tour was more like an open conversation about whatever we wanted to ask. I would name names in praise, but I think these days I'd get them in trouble!

 

Fast forward to last November, and everything is rules, rules, rules. I'm not talking I asked them to break liquor laws - I'd never ask them to do that. "Can we have a pour of the single barrel or small batch instead of the Yellow Label?" "No, we can't do that." Fun times.

 

The entire tour had gone by and there was not a single mention of Jim, the man who turned their entire product line around and elevated it to legendary status from bargain hooch. I asked why nobody mentions Jim, and the guide had clearly been trained to change the subject. If you didn't know your stuff, you'd think Brent had been Master Distiller for decades. The whole thing was just really ungrateful and disrespectful. I bought a distillery selection of OESO for what was then a record setting 75 dollars, got home and tried it and it was a total waste of money. First OESO fail I've had. 

 

I have no doubt at all that Brent and Mandy are great, and I wish I had met Al. But the only way I'm going back to Cox's Creek again is if I'm invited to be part of a pick. It'll happen sooner or later.

[flahute]

On 12/31/2019 at 10:19 AM, Richnimrod said:

THANX, Steve!   As before, a well-considered, and useful compilation of thoughts and experiences, along with a good dose of your valued opinions.   

The subsequent posters, as well!     

This is where StraightBourbon really does shine; for newbies, afficionados, experts (and those that think they are); as well as the folx like me that just really love hearing some of the knowledgeable opinions, to gauge how my understanding and opinions differ, or match up.   

I hafta say, I agree with almost all of the statements, opinions, and other stuph above, ....or at least see how these thoughts could, or do, make sense given the current conditions of the Industry.

Last thought... Didn't love 1792 High Rye as much as (apparently) everybody else.   Much rather have a bottle of the 1792 BIB (but at about $20 less, like the high Rye was).

Thanks Rich! We appreciate your comments and opinions here greatly. Sorry to hear that High Rye didn't work for you, but as we always say, it's good to have varying opinions and our palates like what they like! I have not had the BIB yet as its pricing here in WA State is stupid. 

[flahute]

On 12/31/2019 at 9:10 PM, PaulO said:

Hey Steve,

Can you change the background to dark, with light text.

The white background is too difficult to read a long post.

The only way to make that change is to universally change my settings and I find that the white text on black background is tough on my eyes. You should be seeing it according to your settings. If not, try highlighting the text. For some reason some of kevinbrink's TTB posts show up as white text on white background for me so I just highlight that text so I can read it. 

[flahute]

20 hours ago, Supercharger said:

Love this. 
 

Perhaps I missed it, but, no mention of WB Saffell in the Turkey/Campari synopsis? I thought that was a huge win and a much better product than the Cornerstone. 

Thank you for pointing that out. I should have mentioned it. The reason it slipped my mind is that I don't think it ever made it out to WA State. If it did, it arrived with a whimper and disappeared without landing on the shelf. I did hear enough about it to know that it was highly regarded by just about everyone who tried it.

[Harry in WashDC]

THANKS to you all for theses long posts and comments.  They help me organize my own thoughts and loose plans on what to watch for in the upcoming year as well as choose what I can "safely" pull from the bunker.

[LCWoody]

Great reads. I appreciate everyone taking time to post their thoughts.

[Vosgar]

Great post, Steve! Thank you for taking the time to put down your thoughts and opinions. Since my bourbon buying has dropped quite a bit the last few years, I have to rely on others to keep up with what's happening out there.

[flahute]

20 minutes ago, Vosgar said:

Great post, Steve! Thank you for taking the time to put down your thoughts and opinions. Since my bourbon buying has dropped quite a bit the last few years, I have to rely on others to keep up with what's happening out there.

Are you trying to say you've achieved bourbon zen? An enviable position if true.